• 
  

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Feed a need for chocolate before dessert

By Lynne Char Bennett

Thursday, November 3, 2005 - I feel festive, decadent and sometimes a little naughty whenI eat good chocolate, whether it's warm chocolate cake, a single origin chocolate bar or an artisan chocolate truffle. See's Nuts & Chews assortment was my be-all, end-all after I first had them on my first visit to California many, many years ago. Since then, I've tasted upscale S'mores, chocolate-covered pretzels, and chocolate crepes and souffles.

But one of my favorite chocolate memories is the first time I had turkey mole.

Time and care go into mole, a chile-based sauce with hints of chocolate, most famous in Oaxaca and Puebla, though some regional Mexican moles don't contain any chocolate. In fact, authentic Oaxaca and Puebla moles don't contain much chocolate in proportion to the other sauce ingredients; chocolate adds depth and a touch of bitterness.

According to Diana Kennedy's cookbook, "From My Mexican Kitchen" (Clarkson Potter, 2003), the term mole is generally thought to have come from the Nahuatl word molli, meaning "mixture of ingredients ground together."

Combinations of ground nuts, seeds, tortillas and bread are often added to mole for texture and thickening.

The whole dried chiles in some moles are toasted or fried, then soaked in water to soften. The chiles are then blended to a paste, fried with other spices and ingredients, then simmered with broth. The chocolate is added and the sauce is simmered and stirred some more. It's a time-consuming process but a well-made mole is spectacular.

Mole is not sweet, and the chocolate is a subtle back note that's not always detectable. When The Chronicle panel tasted Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels, I started thinking about mole. However, while I wanted something savory, I also wanted more in-your-face chocolate.

The black fruit, raspberry, spice, black licorice and chocolate aromas and flavors in the recommended Dry Creek Valley Zinfandels partner with chile-laced chocolate when the wines have minimal tannins and moderate alcohol levels (below 15 percent is moderate for Zinfandel these days).

Simple roast lamb, pork or turkey served with a savory sauce containing rich, slightly bitter chocolate, some spice and mild chile heat is a fine partner for Zinfandel.

The varietal's forward fruit offsets the slight bitterness of the semisweet chocolate, which is sweetened by cooked onions and balanced to taste with brown sugar.

Ground chile isn't as authentic as whole dried chiles, but it's much more convenient to use. Just be sure the ground chile is fresh because, like all ground spices, it loses aroma and flavor more quickly than whole ones.

Noticeably high alcohol exacerbates the heat from chiles, so if you have a big, hot Zinfandel, cut back on the amount of chile used.

In moles, the meat -- often poultry or pork -- is added raw or partially cooked to the still-simmering mole, where it finishes cooking. Savory Chocolate Sauce is different; it's used as a condiment, added after the meat is cooked.

The Food & Wine staff tried Savory Chocolate Sauce with lamb, pork and turkey and liked all three, but for different reasons.

One staff member commented that different wine characteristics were enhanced by the different meats. With one wine, the lamb and sauce brought out hearty, full-bodied flavors, while the turkey and sauce allowed more of the wine's spice to come through.

Whatever your meat of choice -- lamb, pork or turkey -- Savory Chocolate Sauce and Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel will spice up your fall table. And it'll take care of your chocolate cravings before you even have time to think about dessert.

Savory Chocolate Sauce

Some stores carry a variety of chile powders that are quick and easy to use. First cook the powder in a little oil to minimize the raw taste and to bring out its aromas and flavors. If pasilla chile powder is not available, New Mexico chile powder is a good substitute.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
• 2 teaspoons pasilla chile powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 1/4 cup minced yellow onion
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• Kosher salt and pepper to taste
• 3/4 cup dry, fruity red wine with minimal oak
• 2 cups low-salt chicken broth or stock
• 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate
• 1/4 cup half-and-half
• 2-4 teaspoons light brown sugar, to taste

Directions

1. In a medium skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium-low, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and toast the chile powders, cinnamon and cumin, stirring frequently, until aromatic -- about 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium, then add the onions, garlic, salt and pepper to taste, and the rest of the oil to the skillet. Cook until the onions become translucent.
2. Add the red wine, increase heat and simmer until wine has reduced to almost dry. Add the chicken broth and reduce until less than half remains. At this point, the volume should be about 1 1/2 cups.
3. Meanwhile, chop the chocolate into very small pieces. Combine the chocolate and half-and-half in a small pan, then warm over medium-low heat just until chocolate is melted, stirring constantly; do not allow it to boil or scorch. Or, melt in a small glass bowl or measuring cup in the microwave (full power for about 40 seconds, stirring every 10 seconds until melted).
4. Whisk the chocolate mixture and chile-flavored stock together; stir in brown sugar to taste.
5. Serve with roast lamb, pork or turkey. Add herbs and currants to couscous or rice pilaf for a nice side dish along with your choice of vegetable.

Note: Ground chile powders are available at some grocery stores and specialty stores. One local spice company is Spicely (soon to become Aspices), Union City; (510) 477-4787 or online at aspices.com.

Yields about 2 cups sauce PER TABLESPOON: 40 calories, 1 g protein, 3 g carbohydrate, 2 g fat (1 g saturated), 1 mg cholesterol, 2 mg sodium, 0 fiber.

Lynne Char Bennett is Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett@sfchronicle.com.

# # #